Thread beads onto each of these two selvedge threads. They don't need to match the rest of the warp, but they do need to be small enough to pass smoothly through the hole in the beads. These two strands, the "floating selvedges", will be placed at the outer edges of the main warp and will carry the beads.
When the main part of the warp is ready, measure two additional warp ends about 30% longer than the rest of the warp. The warp provides the pattern in these bands, so explore stripes and proportions, or arrangements of shiny and matte-this narrow format is a great place for experimentation. Measure your warp yarns and thread the heddle. ( Editor's note: This technique would also work well on an inkle loom, or backstrap loom.) You may be able to find small heddle sections like this one made by Beka (shown with a green and pink warp) at your favourite weaving shop, I sell a small semi-rigid heddle loom, and other small frame looms work just fine, too. (The limitation of a full-width heddle for this particular project is that the "slot" spaces are often too narrow to allow beads to pass through.) For these beaded bands, you may find a small heddle easier to use than a full-width one. To describe them in "weaverly" terms, these bands are woven in warp-faced plain weave, with beads carried on a supplemental floating selvedge along each side of the warp.
On a whim one rainy afternoon, I combined some beads with a selvedge technique borrowed from shaft-loom weaving, and presto: a fun and easy way to make a simple band, simply stunning!īands woven this way have beads running down their edges and are as nice in the hand as they are to the eye. But like most rigid-heddle weavers, I sometimes yearn to make my plain weave a little less "plain". It's no secret-I have a passion for weaving narrow bands on a small rigid heddle.
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